Carpenter Ants
Carpenter ants are a nuisance by their presence when found in parts of the home like the kitchen, bathroom, drawing room and different quarters. When 20 or more large winged and/or wingless ants are discovered indoors, in the day near one location, it is workable that the colony is more successful in the house and the nest can have been extended into sound wood, often times causing structural damage. They do not eat timber, but often remove quantities of it to expand their nest size. Nonetheless, but only if 1 or 2 large wingless ants are erratically crawling, they may simply be foraging for food with the nest located outside. Outdoors, they are often seen running over plants and tree trunks or living in moist, partly rotten wood stumps. Nonetheless, carpenter ant inquiries rank first over all other household/structural pests in Ohio.
Identification
Carpenter ants are among the largest ants located in homes and reside in colonies containing three castes consisting of winged and wingless queens, winged males and different sized workers. Winged males are much smaller than winged queens. Wingless queens measure 5/8 inch, winged queens 3/4 inch to the tips of their folded brownish wings, small minor workers 1/4 inch and large major workers 1/2 inch. Workers have some brown on them while queens are black. Workers have large heads and a small thorax while adult swarmers have a smaller head and large thorax. Carpenter ants have a smoothly rounded arched (convex) shape to the peak of the thorax when studied from the side and a pedicel between the thorax and abdomen consisting of just one segment or node. They have constricted waists, elbowed antennas and the reproductive's forewings are larger than the hindwings, transparent or brownish and not easily taking away. Adults are commonly black with some species red, brown or yellow occurring on areas of the body and legs. Eggs are about 1/8-inch long, cream colored and oval. Larvae are legless and grub-like, later pupating in tough silken, tan-colored cocoons erroneously remarked as "ant eggs."
Life Cycle and Habits
Queen Worker
Winged both sexes carpenter ants (swarmers) emerge from mature colonies usually from March to July. After mating, males die and fresh fertilized ladies (mated for keeps), establish a new colony in a small cavity in timber, under bark, etc. and each lays 15 to 20 eggs in 15 days. The egg stage takes about 24 days, larval stage 21 days and pupal stage 21 days or about 66 days from egg to adult at 70 to 90 degrees F. Cool weather may extend this period up to 10 months. The colony does not produce swarmers until about three years later. A mature colony, after three to six years, has 2,000 to 4,000 individuals. During the first breed, larvae are fed entirely by a fluid secreted from the queen's mouth where she does not take food, but uses stored fat reserves and wing muscles for her nourishment. The few workers emerging from the first hatch assume duties of the colony, collecting food, excavating galleries to enlarge the nest and tending the eggs, larvae and pupae of the second generation. Workers regurgitate food for nourishment of the developing larvae and queen. She has few duties except to lay eggs.
In later generations, workers of several sizes are produced (polymorphism) into major and minor workers, that are all sterile females. Males formed are winged swarmers. Larger "major" workers guard the nest, battle intruders, explore and forage for food while smaller "minor" workers expand the nest and care for the young. workers, when disturbed, bring off the larvae and pupa, which has to be fed and tended or they die. In a mature colony, there is commonly one queen with 200 to 400 winged individuals produced as swarmers. Workers have strong jaws and readily bite (sharp pinch) when contacted.
Nests are usually established in soft, moist (not wet), decayed timber or occasionally in an existing timber cavity or void area in a structure that is perfectly dry. Workers cut galleries in the timber, expanding the nest size for the enlarging colony. Galleries are irregular, usually excavated with the timber grain ( occasionally across the cereal) into softer portions of the timber. The walls of the nest are smooth and clean (sandpapered appearance) with shredded sawdust-like timber fragments, like chewed up toothpicks (frass), carried from the nest and deposited outside. These piles of wood fragments, often found beneath special openings (windows) or nest openings, might comprise portions of insects, empty seed coats, etc.
Carpenter ants do not eat wood but excavate wood galleries to rear their young ants and carry aphids to plants, placing them on leaves for the production of honey dew. The food weight loss program is of great variety (omnivorous) of both plant and animal origin like plant juices, fresh fruits, insects (living or dead), meats, syrup, honey, jelly, sugar, grease, fat, honey dew (aphid excrement), etc. They feed readily on termites and usually never exist with them in the home. Workers are known to forage for food in as much as 100 yards from their nest.
Control Measures
The most important and often most hard part of carpenter ant control is locating the nest or nests. Once the nest location is found, control is very easy and simple. Sometimes more than one colony is present in the structure or on its grounds, so a thorough inspection is very important. Steps to a prosperous inspection include an interview with family members, inspection indoors, inspection outdoors and sound detection.
Interview
Often both young and old of the residence know where ants are seen, where vast quantities are most prevalent, movement patterns, moisture in the structure, moisture problems of the past, if swarmers were seen, location of sawdust-like material in piles, populations outdoors, etc.
Inspection Indoors
Nests can be located in either moist or dry wood. Nevertheless, carpenter ants prefer to nest in moist timber with a moisture content considerable over 15 percent, often caused by rain, leaks, condensation, etc. Structural timber is about 12 to 15 percent moisture. A moisture meter can find wet places to pinpoint possible nest locations. Inspect behind washroom tiles, around tubs, showers, sinks, dishwashers, washing machines, refrigerator drip pans, etc. Check wood tormented by moisture from contact with the soil like steps, porch supports, siding, seepage from plugged drain gutters, chimney flashing, wooden shingle roofs, hollow porch posts, columns, leaking window and door frames, window boxes, crawl spaces, pipes, poor pitch of porch roofs, flat deck porch roofs, under porches, attics, etc. Now and again, nests are located in dry environments, such as hollow veneer doors, curtain rods, small void areas between the door casing and ceiling, false beams, or under insulation in attics. Look for damaged timbers, swarmers in spider webs, wood piles indoors, piles of wood debris removed from the colony (pencil sharpener shaving-like), "windows" or small opening to a nest, etc. Gently tap floor joists, etc. with a hammer. A nest cavity gives a hollow ring. A knife blade will penetrate the wood if infested.
Baiting
Some may use tiny piles of sugar at 2 to 3 feet intervals around the kitchen, washroom, etc. in attempt to determine where the nest is located. Others use drops of honey or corn syrup placed on the rear of masking tape. Make observations late at night, following ants back to their nest entrance.
Flushing Agent
A household aerosol spray, containing pyrethrins and piperonyl butoxide, applied directly into crevices, crevices or holes, will excite the ants (repellent action) causing them to come running out revealing the presence of their nest in some situations.
Inspection Outdoors
Look for ants traveling from a tree or stump to the structure. They might travel over tree branches or vines touching the roof, electrical and telephone wires, fences with the house, piles of firewood, logs, or railroad ties nearby or hollow living trees with entrance knot holes, etc. Workers are most active in the evening (midnight), traveling from their nest to a food source following trails but no particular trail leading instantly to the nest. They do establish chemical (pheromone) trails.
Sound Detection
An engaged colony may produce a distinct, dry rustling sound ( occasionally loud), close to the crinkling of cellophane. It might be heard in a wall when standing in a room. A listening device, such as a stethoscope, may be of use when weather conditions are quiet and outside noises are at a nominal amount. Even a cat may hear noises in a home caused by ant mandibles (jaws) not from chewing wood or eating food, but as their form of communication, in particular when the colony is disturbed.
Prevention
Homeowners should trim all trees and bushes so branches do not touch or come in contact with the house. Correct moisture problems such as leaking roofs, leaking chimney flashing, or plumbing, poorly ventilated attics or crawl spaces and blocked gutters. Replace rotted or water-damaged wood and eradicate wood to soil contact. Remove dead stumps within 50 feet of the home, if practical, and repair trees with damage at broken limbs, and holes in the trunk. Seal crevices and crevices in the foundation, especially where utility pipes and wiring occur externally. Be sure to outlet firewood off the earth away from the house and bring in barely enough firewood (first examining it) to be employed quickly . Consider non-organic mulches near the house in heavily infested ant areas. High moisture conditions must be eliminated to help control carpenter ants, prevent future attacks and stop " wood decay" fungus infection.
This publication incorporates pesticide recommendations that are subject to change at any time. These suggestions are supplied only as a guide. It is always the pesticide applicator's responsibility, by law, to read and follow all current label directions for the specific pesticide being used. Attributable to never stand still labels and product registration, a few of the suggestions given in this writing may no longer be legal by the time you read them. If any details in these suggestions disagrees with the label, the recommendation must be dismissed. No endorsement is meant for products mentioned, nor is criticism meant for products not mentioned. The author, The Ohio State University and Ohio State University Extension assume no liability resulting from the use of these recommendations.
